Upon entering The Table Colaba I was greeted by a former fellow Kingfisher model who, spurred by a love of food, has taken to hosting the restaurant.
She informed us that The Table Colaba had that very day taken away the award for ‘India’s Best Restaurant’. Not really one to be seduced by media hype, I smiled politely and nodded.
Initially discouraged by the tapas-style menu (I prefer to commit to single, large meals) I gingerly ordered the grilled calamari with chilli-almond pesto, fregola, confit tomato and black olive. My experience with dining in India is that calamari is rarely served grilled, so if you see it, hold on for dear life.
When it arrived, I judged the dish by its cover – small, chopped up bits of calamari hardly discernable to the eye. I was instantly irritated by the ‘dumbing down’ of the dish; do these people think calamari can’t be broken down by teeth? Where’s the fun if it’s already been mashed up for us?
Grumbling, I took a bite. My tastebuds all of a sudden started singing hymns of praise – the delicateness of the squid coupled with the bite of the pesto and sweetness of the tomato resulted in what can only be described as a taste-gasm. Give me more!
The yellowfin tuna tataki with avocado, tomato gelée and sesame vinagrette was amazingly fresh (something you learn not to take for granted with Japanese in Mumbai) not to mention light with a perfect balance of flavours.
Avocado and raw fish are two companions which should never be separated and The Table Colaba seems to understand that. It would have been nice however, to have been offered wooden chopsticks to preserve the taste and authenticity of the dish.
When I was advised to try the lamb mini-burgers, I scoffed. How good can sliders be? And why would a fine dining establishment bother serving them? Again I was mistaken. These little guys were treated just like steak, cooked to instructed perfection at medium and not a second overdone.
The balance of tzaziki perfectly ironed out the spice of the lamb, leaving a clean after-taste.
Expecting a spectacular finale, I was underwhelmed by the ‘large plate’ of roasted rawas with spinach.
After the perfect composition of the previous three dishes, it seemed large and clumsy; definitely not a dish which could warrant more than a few bites.
The Dom Perignon on hand was not chilled to perfection as one would expect, which was a sore disappointment.
Overall it was a mostly positive mixed bag, with three out of four of the dishes being a 9.5/10, with the sorry roasted rawas a 6.5/10.
While the downstairs decor of the restaurant was acceptable, the ambience of the upstairs floor failed to make an impact with its lack of charm and uniqueness.
The Table is located in the Kalapesi Trust Building, Apollo Bunder Marg, Colaba, Mumbai.